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Posted: 14 Dec 2011 01:00 AM PST

by Rachel Hammel

Holidays aren't the same without tradition. I learned this several years ago as an undergraduate student, when I had been studying for a semester in Paris and living with a host family. Thanksgiving had been amusing at best: my roommate and I prepared a lavish dinner combining her family's dishes and mine, leaving our humble hosts thankful but visibly perplexed at the idea of piling everything on the plate at once. Christmas was now quickly approaching and I had been away from my family in California for four months. The days were getting darker and colder, school was winding down and France seemed to be losing its hold on me.

My friend offered that we take a trip for the holiday and explore an area outside of Paris. She suggested Strasbourg, a city I had heard faintly of but knew nothing about, other than it is one of the headquarters of the European Union. But, as I would discover, it is much more than that.

We arrived by train and made our way to the apartment where we'd be staying as "couch surfers." It was a charming 1-bedroom flat owned by Véronique, a sweet French woman who spent her weekend eagerly explaining the wonders of her city, touring us around and generously preparing our meals at no cost to us.

As we learned, this quaint town in France's Alsace region, bordering Germany, is coined the "Capital of Christmas." Home to the original Marché de Noël, or Christkindelmärik in their dialect, Strasbourg attracts thousands of visitors every year for their elaborate Christmas celebrations. Dating back to 1570, this traditional festival—the oldest in France—brings a huge series of artisanal markets throughout the streets of the city. For several weeks leading up to the holiday, talented craftsmen showcase their goods, bakers and restaurant owners deliver their culinary delights, and various activities, exhibitions and concerts draw families from around the world.

The festival has an interesting history. In fact, some theories point to Alsace as the root of the Christmas tree tradition: throughout the Middle Ages on Christmas Eve, townspeople would depict stories of the history of creation in front of churches. During these "Games of Paradise," they used fir trees decorated with apples to represent the tree of paradise. When apples became scarce in the region in 1850 due to drought, glassworkers created apples out of blown glass, giving rise to what we know today as glass Christmas ornaments.

During our stay in Strasbourg, there was never a dull moment: we admired the lights and decorations, bought hand-made ornaments and decorations, ice skated, made arts and crafts, mingled with locals and indulged in the area's seasonal cuisine. Ah, I thought often to myself, tradition!

Speaking of cuisine, highlights of my travels are always marked by food. The Alsatian fare was pretty phenomenal—not the delicate, minimalistic plates you'd imagine when you think of Paris. It was warm, hearty, filling and yet so simple, like all French food: technically and aesthetically impeccable and yet so straightforward. Among my favorites were Baeckeoffe, or "Baker's Oven": a hearty winter pot roast of layered meat, potatoes and vegetables, and La Bûche de Noël: a super rich log-shaped sponge cake. But nothing came close to their famous Christmas mulled wine. This piping hot, aromatic concoction warms the body and soul like nothing else. My friend and I drank it everywhere because, aside from the fact that it's delicious, it kept our hands warm and helped round out that holiday feeling. Oh, and the aftereffect was nice too.

Back in California during the Christmas season, there's nothing better than wrapping up in a blanket near the fire with a cup of this stuff. Although no matter how hard I try to recreate the experience, it's never as good as it was while meandering the narrow streets of that romantic Alsatian town where France reclaimed its hold on me.

Recipe: Mulled Wine

Summary: You can start with a red Burgundy, Bordeaux, any wine from Alsace or even a Beaujolais. You can also substitute with white wine, which is common in Alsace and equally delicious.

Ingredients

1 bottle wine
1 ½ cups water
1 ¼ cups sugar
4 whole cloves
2 star anises
1 whole nutmeg
2 (3-inch) cinnamon sticks
5 cardamom pods
1 vanilla bean (optional)
2 Tbsp. honey (optional, frequently used in mulled white wine)
1 small orange, thinly sliced
1 small lemon, thinly sliced
Cheese cloth and string

Instructions

Wrap cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods, cloves and nutmeg in the cheesecloth. Tie firmly with string.
Bring water and sugar to a boil in a large saucepan, stirring until dissolved.
Add the wine, spice bag, vanilla bean, fruit and honey. Bring to a boil.
Turn down the heat and simmer covered for several hours, stirring occasionally
Serve in hot glasses, decorated with twisted lemon or orange peels.

Preparation time: 10 minute(s)

Cooking time: 2 hour(s)

Number of servings (yield): 4

Rachel Hammel is a San Francisco-based writer/editor and blogger who loves to travel and eat. You can follow her on twitter at @RachelHammel.

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Wednesday, December 14, 2011