The Latest from the FlipKey Blog

Posted: 10 Feb 2012 11:16 AM PST

The word “carnival” usually evokes images of Brazil, New Orleans or Trinidad. Uruguay’s carnival is less famous, but it’s the longest carnival in the world, lasting 40 days. This colorful event began on January 26, 2012, and continues through March. While most Uruguayan communities have some sort of Carnival celebration, the main action happens in the capital city of Montevideo.

Carnival History

During the middle of the 18th century, wealthy families from Montevideo imported slaves from different African nations. The masters gave their imported slaves one day to celebrate their cultural identity. The drum-based musical form called candombe evolved from these celebrations. These fiestas continued after the slaves were granted their freedom. Eventually, candombe styles merged with traditional Uruguayan music, thereby creating a unique blend of African and Uruguayan rhythms.

Comparsa

Groups of candombe players are called Comparsa. The carnival begins with all of the local comparsa parading from La Rambla or waterfront toward the streets of Montevideo. Scantily, albeit elaborately dressed dancers perform to the pulsating drum beat.These processions are called llamadas or “calls.”

Men dominated the Comparsa culture until 2005, when La Melaza, a group of female candombe drummers entered the scene. A total of 78 women now form the group. Candombe performances might last for three hours. Since many of the women lack the upper body power necessary for competing with their male counterparts, they alternate explosive segments with mellow periods. The La Melaza group makes regular appearances at the Uruguay Carnival.

Murga

The Murga, consisting of 17 people, is another vital feature of the Uruguayan carnival.These groups write and perform a 45-minute piece of musical theater, which is often a parody of the year’s current events. Performances take place in clubs and theaters throughout Montevideo. Judges give prizes to the best group of performers. Pariodistas also perform impromptu political
parody. They dance through the streets and joke with the crowds on the sidelines.

The Carnival Museum

The Carnival Museum, located near the port market, or Puerto Mercado in Montevideo, offers a time travel experience into history of the carnival in Uruguay. The museum shows the different carnival costumes and drums used throughout the century. While you are in the neighborhood, don’t miss the opportunity for lunch or dinner at Puerto Mercato, where the cooks grill beef, chicken and vegetables over an open fire.

Side Trip to Buenos Aires

Busquebus has boat service between Montevideo and Buenos Aires. The Buenos Aires carnival takes place over the weekends, between February and March. The parades last on Saturday from 7 pm till 2 am, and Sunday on 7 pm till midnight. On Friday evenings, the Amphitheater Eva Peron in Parque Centenario holds special carnival performances.

Murga is the main focus of the Buenos Aires carnival. Teams of political satirists perform acrobatic dance moves as they sing their songs and parade through the streets and perform on the stage. The performers, however, avoid scanty costumes and opt for shiny, colorful garments that resemble business suits. During the 1990s, a punk-rock group called Los Auténticos Decadentes developed their own, modernized version of Murga. They are now a regular feature at the Buenos Aires Carnival.

If You Go

You will arrive in Uruguay during summer, so bring your bathing suit. If the non-stop party scene of Montevideo lacks appeal, but you still want a taste of South American carnival, the coastal towns of Atlantida, Piriapolis and Punta del Este feature just a one-day parade

Find Vacation Rentals

Saturday, February 11, 2012